Paris met Tinseltown earlier today inside the Grand Palais as Chanel creative director Virginie Viard presented her Spring collection. Inspired by a “cinematic woman,” models walked down a runway replete with its own version of the iconic Hollywood sign spelling out—what else?—C-H-A-N-E-L.
The mix of Old Hollywood glamour, new Hollywood ease, and effortless New Wave chic that inspired the clothes—Tweedy skirt sets! Pastel denim trousers! Floral-print maxi dresses!—provided endless reference points for Chanel’s global creative makeup and color designer Lucia Pica, who focused the makeup on an international cool-girl favorite: black eye paint. Blending dense, charcoal pigment through the crease to an almost goth-like effect—“It has a sort of ’90s Winona Ryder feel to it,” Pica revealed in an interview with British Vogue—the matte smoky wash was offset by fresh skin and rosy nude lips and happened to offer the perfect beauty proposition for the show’s biggest front row accessory: white face masks distributed at the door.
“We have to think about our eyes now that we use them a lot more to express our feelings,” Pica added, noting that she has found herself using more mascara and eyeshadow of late. “You can’t see when we’re smiling at each other, so emphasizing the eyes will help.” Consider it a perennially chic makeup strategy for uncertain times.